Saving Garden Seeds

Posted on July 18, 2021 by Editorial Team

The article “Saving Garden Seeds” is a guest post by Roger Perry.

Saving garden seeds is an easy, fun, and inexpensive way to grow your favorite garden plants from year to year. Seeds are designed to withstand many natural problems such as heat, cold, drought and fire. Some can even survive being eaten by birds and animals. Many seeds can be dried out, saved, and planted the next year with some success, but for best results, follow the steps below.

Before you plant, consider how the plants are pollinated. Self-pollinated plants have flowers that pollinate themselves and grow true to the parent plant. Tomatoes, peppers, beans and peas are good choices. Cross-pollinated plants are pollinated by a separate plant of the same or closely related variety. The seed from these plants may not be true to the parent plant. Sweet corn can be pollinated by popcorn. Cucumbers, melons, squash, pumpkins and gourds can all pollinate each other.

If you’re interested in saving garden seeds of cross-pollinated plants, you should not plant more than one variety that may cross with the parent. If you plant one variety of cucumber–do not plant any melons, squash, pumpkins or gourds. Hybrid plants are produced by professionals. They combine two different varieties under strict pollination conditions to produce the best features of both plants. The seeds of hybrid plants will not be the same as the parent plant. The home gardener should not try to save the seeds of hybrid plants.

Obtain seeds, cuttings, transplants from a reliable source. Seeds should be fresh, clean and disease-free. Seeds can be obtained from commercial sources, community outreach organizations, seed exchange groups and fellow gardeners. Observe plant growth and development and crop results (size, quantity, and quality), as you only want to save seed from the best plants.

Most seeds are not ready to harvest until after the peak for eating, so be sure to mark what you want to let ripen for seed so that it doesn’t get picked and eaten. Tomatoes and cucumbers have seeds that are coated with a gel. This should be removed by fermentation. Squeeze or spoon the seed mass into a waterproof container-jar, glass or cup. Add enough water to cover the seed mass, cover lightly and place in a warm spot out of direct sunlight. Stir at least once a day. The good seed will begin to sink to the bottom. The bad seeds and white mold will float on the surface. After five days all the good seed will be on the bottom. Pour off the accumulation on the top and wash the seeds in clear water several times Lay the seeds out to dry for several weeks.

Peppers can be cut open and the seeds brushed off the center stem onto a plate or screen. Set them aside to dry for several weeks. Always wear plastic gloves, wash your hands and be careful where you touch when working with peppers.

Squashes, pumpkins and gourds can be cut open and the seeds removed by hand or spoon. Wash them under cold running water, rubbing carefully to remove stringy membrane. Put them on a plate or screen and set aside to dry for several weeks.

Peas and beans should not be picked until the pods are thoroughly brown and dry. They may be left in the pods or shelled for storage. In either case they should be set aside to dry for several weeks.

Lettuce and greens also produce seed pods; however, they tend to shatter as they dry out. To prevent them from shattering either tie a paper bag over the flower heads or pick the dry pods daily. Treat the seeds like peas.

Melons can be cut open and the seeds removed by hand or spoon. Wash the seeds under cold running water rubbing off any stringy membrane with your fingers. Put the seeds in a waterproof container and cover with water. The good seeds should sink to the bottom in a couple of days. Pour off the bad seeds and water. Rinse the good seeds again and set aside to dry for several weeks.

Biennials, such as cabbage, beets, carrots, cauliflower, onions, parsley, and turnips, do not produce seed the first year. They can be left in the ground and protected from winter cold or dug up and stored over the winter and then replanted the following spring.

Once your seeds are completely dry they can be stored in any dry secure container placed in a cool dry area. More than one type of seed can be stored together, but each type needs to be separated in its own packet. Each packet or container should be clearly marked with the name and variety, date harvested and any other information you feel will be helpful next spring. Now you know everything you need for saving garden seeds.

This article is a guest post by VIA volunteer Roger Perry. Roger has more than 40 years’ experience with gardening. He has worked with all kinds of plants from potatoes to passion fruits, and is happy to share his expertise with the VIA community.

Planting Seeds

Posted on May 29, 2021 by Editorial Team

Freedom from the state and self-sufficiency go hand-in-hand. One of our latest projects here at Voluntaryism in Action, “Rooted in Voluntaryism,” aims to assist more people to increase their self-sufficiency through gardening. A VIA follower and volunteer, Roger Perry, is a master gardener with a lifetime of experience. Below, he offers a basic explanation for planting seeds. We hope this will be a helpful accompaniment to your seed starter kit if you signed up for our program, or that you’ll share with friends interested in starting their own vegetable gardens!

Planting seeds is less expensive than buying nursery plants. A packet of seeds may cost between $1.00 and $3.00 (check out the options from our friends at True Leaf Market) and will produce more plants than the average home gardener can use. Seeds can sometimes be received free at garden shows, food banks, and other community resources.

A packet of seeds may also be shared between family, friends, or neighbors reducing the cost to almost zero. Planting seeds allows you to extend the growing season as you can plant seeds indoors several weeks before it is safe to plant outdoors.

Before you start to planting seeds, it is important to take a look at the seed packet for important information about the seeds. The front of the packet has general information such as: the company name of the seller, cost, name and variety of the seed. It may also show things like: number of days to harvest, if it is suitable for growing in a container, if it is NON-GMO (not modified genetically), and the weight of the seeds.

The reverse side will have a general description of the item, planting instructions, a map of the United States and four climate zones (this is kind of small and hard to see), and the year for which the seed was packed (although seeds are packed for a specific year, they will normally be viable (able to grow) for at least 2-3 years).

When planting seeds indoors you will need a growing container of some type. Almost any container will do. It should be fairly shallow, have drainage holes in the bottom, and a plate to catch the water. It may be covered to retain moisture and warmth. Recycled nursery containers (see below) are perfect. They are shallow and have plenty of drainage holes. They can sometimes be obtained from nurseries, friends, or from items you have purchased.

You can also use recycled household items (below).

Clamshell type items can be cut in half (below).

Put drain holes in one part and use the other as a plate to catch the water (below). When putting holes in the containers be careful not to injure yourself!

A cover is not necessary, but if you want one you can use plastic film, a plastic bag, or top of a plastic clamshell. Put a few small holes in the plastic cover to prevent mildew or overheating. Even with the holes, remove the cover for a few hours a day and make sure the plastic does not touch the soil.

You do not need to buy a special soil mix for planting seeds. Most yard soil will do; however, if your soil is especially heavy and wet, you will have better results if you can add some potting soil and or sand.

Now you are ready to plant! Wet the soil and let it drain. Follow the instructions on the packet for how deep to plant. Try to allow more space between seeds than the packet indicates to make it easier to transplant when the time comes. If you are planting more than one variety of seed, it would be a good idea to add a marker with the kind of seed and the date they were planted.

Planting outdoors may be easier and less troublesome. Whether you are planting seeds or transplanting your seedlings, the process is about the same. Prepare the soil. Again, most soils will do without adding costly, processed amendments. If your soil is especially heavy clay, you may want to add sand, compost, or other organic matter.

Using a shovel, hoe, trowel, etc. dig the soil up, breaking big clods and adding any amendments as you go. Rake the soil smooth. Water lightly and let it drain. Plant seeds according to package directions. Plant seedlings at the same depth as they were in the seed bed. Adding a light mulch will help retain warmth and moisture and will deter weed growth.

Now, water and weed as necessary until your crops are ready to harvest!

Self-Sufficiency through Gardening

Posted on May 6, 2021 by Editorial Team

Freedom from the state and self-sufficiency go hand-in-hand. One of our latest projects here at Voluntaryism in Action, “Rooted in Voluntaryism,” aims to assist more people to increase their self-sufficiency through gardening. A VIA follower and volunteer, Roger Perry, is a master gardener with a lifetime of experience. Below, he offers some basic tips for beginners. We hope this will be a helpful accompaniment to your seed starter kit if you signed up for our program, or that you’ll share with friends interested in starting their own vegetable gardens!

Before beginning your home garden let’s take a look at some of the basics.

Climate Zones

There are two main organizations that have developed a series of climate zones covering the entire country. The United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) Publishes one list, and The Sunset Western Garden Book (Sunset) publishes another. They are based on different information and so their zones do not overlap—you must be sure that you know which one you are using and which one a catalog, store, or label is using. They are both widely available at garden stores, libraries, online, seed catalogs, and other sources. These climate zones give you general guidance as to a particular plant’s adaptability to your general area. Along with your climate zone you should also be aware of your microclimate—the things affecting your specific garden location. Will the garden be on the north side of a building? Is it shaded by trees? Is it at the bottom of a hill? Is there a river or lake nearby? All these factors can influence a plant’s ability to grow in a specific location.

Growing Season

This is basically the number of days above freezing weather. It starts with the average last day of frost in the spring and ends with the average first day of frost in the fall. This is just a guide; there are plants that will survive in freezing weather and others that cannot tolerate any cold. The growing season can be extended by starting seeds indoors, using plastic or blankets to cover plants, using plastic to cover the soil, or by using raised beds.

Soil

Soil is dirt, plain and simple. You can plant your vegetable garden in almost any common soil and get good results. There are a few things to watch out for—heavy clay soil, boggy wet soil, extremely sandy soil, acid/alkaline imbalance, lack of basic nutrients. Clay, boggy, sandy soils can be improved by adding organic material—compost, sawdust, lawn clippings, purchased garden soil. With boggy soil look for the source of the water to see if it can be diverted. The general acid, alkaline, or nutrient status of your soil can be checked using a simple soil test kit purchased from a nursery or plant store, or you can send or take a soil sample to a soil testing lab. These can be located through plant nurseries, local college/universities, or online.

Water

Quality of water is not usually a problem. If you want your water tested, most municipal water providers, local college/university, or testing labs can do so at a minimal charge. A bigger concern is with managing the water to ensure it is in the right place at the right time and the right amount. This is called irrigation. Plants require regular watering. Newly planted seeds or plants should be kept slightly damp, but don’t soak them. After they have become established, water deeply and then do not water again until the soil begins to dry out. Small gardens can be watered using a watering can, a bucket, or a common water hose. Larger gardens need a water hose or a system of pipes, hoses, sprinklers that all may be hooked up to an electric timer. A system of ditches, dams and pools can help collect and direct the water. Mulching can help keep the soil moist.

Mulch

Mulching is the process of adding organic material (Lawn clippings, leaves, sawdust, bark chunks) around plants growing in the garden. The mulch helps retain moisture, keep plants cool, blocks weeds from growing, and adds nutrients and organic material to the soil as it breaks down. As decomposing mulch takes nitrogen from the soil, it is a good idea to add nitrogen when you add the mulch.

Nutrients

Plants need nutrients (chemicals) to help them grow. These can come from inorganic (chemical) or organic (natural) sources. Both types can be purchased to meet specific needs. Organic fertilizers can also be found at home, although quantities and qualities are less precise. Coffee grounds, eggshells, banana peels, and other kitchen waste (but no meat, fat, or bones!), leaves, lawn clippings, sawdust and other organic compounds can add some nutrients. There are three main chemicals in fertilizer—Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K). Every fertilizer label lists the percentage by weight of these three ingredients (NPK) and then any other nutrients included. If you use a chemical fertilizer, look for a balanced one. These contain equal or nearly equal amounts of NPK fertilizer (10-10-10 or 15-10-8).

Composting

Composting is the process of breaking down organic material into soil. This is done by building a compost pile (freestanding or enclosed). Gather materials to be composted (lawn trimmings, leaves, kitchen waste—no meat, fat, or bones—and other organic material). Shred or chop. Dig a hole. Put material in hole, cover lightly with dirt, mix it up, add some water, cover lightly with dirt. In a few days dig the material, mix it up, water it, and add another light coating of dirt. Continue this process until the composted material is no longer visible. Now it can be added to other soil, used as mulch, or used for planting seeds. If you don’t have the time or energy to turn it all the time don’t worry, it will eventually decompose on its own. A simple way to compost small amounts is to take the daily kitchen scraps and bury them among the growing plants in the garden. Be sure to remember where yesterday’s scraps are buried and stay away from plant roots. Another easy way to compost is in the spring and fall when the garden is not planted, start at one end of the garden, and dig a hole. When you have enough organic material, bury it in the hole. Dig another hole and continue the process. By the time you get to the end of the garden you can start again.

Organic or Chemical?

Many people, especially those growing their own food, feel that organic is the way to go. Others feel that proper use of chemicals is safe and easy. The choice is yours. There are organic fertilizers, pesticides, and insecticides. They may not be quite as fast or effective as chemicals, but they will not harm the environment, they allow for biodiversity, they provide “clean” crops, and they encourage you to be active in your garden.

Good luck in your gardening adventure! If you can’t afford starting seeds, be sure to visit VIA’s Rooted In Voluntaryism page to request help.

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